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PARIS — The better champ of the basic appearance week, it seems, was the real-life appearance show.
A scattering of buyers advised in on the basic presentations, which were broadly accepted — assorted and active as they were — but abounding opined that annihilation beats actuality in the aforementioned room.
Loewe stood out as a admired of buyers, both for the accumulating and presentation, bridging the physical-digital bisect with an alternate box of aliment that included bolt swatches and pop-out glasses formed in cardboard. Casablanca bent attention, too, for a arrant video presentation that swept the eyewitness off to a close paradise, area men in cottony white shirts acclimatized to animated music afore demography off in a ablaze red best sports car.
Dior men’s ample aerial on the annual of client favorites, too, with accurate acclaim for the accord with artisan Amoako Boafo.
Brands booty note: buyers said they appetite to see accouterment in videos rather than a teaser. They did acknowledge peeks into the architecture action — as offered by Rick Owens — or communicable a aroma of what it’s like backstage at a appearance appearance — as apparent in the Hermès film. Issey Miyake was additionally singled out, for the accumulating and active ball presentation.
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As for trends, aqueous and accessible breeding reigned, and pastels bedeviled the blush palettes.
Here, a assembly of the Paris highlights from retailers.
Damien Paul, arch of men’s wear, Matchesfashion, London
Favorite collections: Loewe, Rick Owens, Issey Miyake Homme Plissé and Hermès.
Best presentation: I enjoyed a lot of the presentations and the agenda content, but the abstraction for Rick Owens stood out. It acquainted like a absolute appropriate behind-the-scenes moment with the artisan and to watch him appearance his brood acquainted like you were backstage moments afore the show. Aback would you anytime get to see that?
I additionally acquainted that Y/Project’s admission worked: Glenn Marten’s assignment is multilayered and to see how he and the aggregation styled apparel that could be assignment in countless agency was a absolute able approach.
Trendspotting: There’s a faculty of optimism. A lot of designers accept ashore to their amount cast DNA — there’s a faculty that they appetite to be accurate to their abode codes. There are flashes of blush in abrupt places and it’s additionally absorbing to see how the contour is acceptable added airy and looser. That said, men’s abrasion has consistently been added about capacity over big across-the-board banderole trends and this actually angelus accurate this season.
Must-have item: I accept to be honest and say this is article that I acquisition far easier to analyze accepting been at shows and showrooms in person.
Video format: One affair I would agenda is that some of the affection videos, whilst actually engaging, didn’t actually appearance any of the product. As a buyer, I consistently appetite to see the clothes, how it works on the body, to see it in movement and I acquainted some agreeable didn’t appearance this in the best light. It’s a baby agenda on what was all-embracing a actually absolute appearance week.
Bruce Pask, men’s appearance director, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Casablanca’s close break flat set was a abundant accomplishments for the vivid, bright accumulating of cottony printed resort abrasion that is the brand’s signature.
I begin the celebrating movement and dancing in the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake video so engaging; an adroit way to affection the accumulating that absolute abundant approximated their active shows.
I accepted that Yohji Yamamoto staged what seemed like an absolute aerodrome show, with lovely, affectionate close-ups and on-screen descriptions of apparel that were abundantly accessible and insightful. I additionally actually enjoyed the behind-the-scenes video of Rick Owens cutting his collection’s accessory book, with his off-the-cuff annotation and chat that was absorbing and interesting. [And I] enjoyed Mike Amiri’s absolute claimed booty on the conception of his collection, accouterment attenuate acumen that was altogether ill-fitted to the video format.
Jonathan Anderson’s appearance in a box for Loewe created with M|M Flat was actually inventive, accouterment concrete pieces, afflatus and presenting apparel in a way that actually put focus on adroitness and the artisanal attributes that is such a authentication of the brand. The abounding day of curated video programming that accompanied
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