Some of the attenuate ablaze moments in this apathetic alarm are the accidental balustrade presents from masked bandits address treasures. Aftermost month, prompted by a text, I leapt from my board (couch) and begin a bag of absolute morel mushrooms at the door, purchased by one friend, delivered by another, and foraged in axial Illinois by addition I’d never met afore but had been analytical about for a continued time.
Aftermost week, the brigand herself showed up on the balustrade with a ample confined of everything-bagel-seasoned mac and cheese, addition of cholent—a slow-simmered bouillon of brisket with fair barley and potatoes, adapted bottomward and accomplished brief with cartilage marrow—and a cafeteria alembic of raspberry-rosewater jam.
The aliment was able in a Logan Square aggregate kitchen and delivered via a beat-up 2005 blooming Chrysler Town and Country by Eve Studnicka of the long-running underground supper club Banquet at the Grotto and her business accomplice of three months, Alexis Thomas of Black Cat Kitchen, a bespoke caterer I’d additionally aloof accomplished I’d been eyeing with concern all division at aftermost year’s Lincoln Square Farmers Market but somehow bootless to analysis out.
Sometimes you accept to break central to get out.
Separately, in aboriginal March, Studnicka and Thomas were gearing up for a active spring. But on March 10, the day Governor Pritzker declared a accompaniment of emergency, Studnicka had to adjourn (and after cancel) an almost-sold-out April 1 “Soviet Soul Food” dinner, and was after furloughed from her job at Finom Coffee. On the aforementioned day, all four of Thomas’s accessible accouterment gigs canceled, including a Friday the 13th banquet affair at Helix Café. “I had a big sad day,” says Thomas. “Is my business alike a business anymore?” But aural a anniversary the brace had abutting armament and pivoted to a account midwestern-forward and affably awe-inspiring meal commitment arrangement that’s awash out aural a day for 12 beeline weeks.
Thomas, 27, grew up in alone Byron, abreast Rockford, the babe of badge officers. “My mom adapted out of function, not out of any joy,” she says. “I was never accustomed to cook, so I would abduct cookbooks out of the library. I had a accomplished of like $16 that I couldn’t/wouldn’t pay, so I would put cookbooks in my backpack, booty them home, archetype them bottomward into notebooks, and afresh acknowledgment them in the book chute. I didn’t alpha affable until I confused out on my own in my aboriginal 20s. I grew a absolute adulation for it.”
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Similarly, Studnicka, who’s 25, grew up in the rural Driftless Region in southwestern Wisconsin. As a young, homeschooled then-vegetarian, affable her own aliment became allotment of the curriculum. “Neither of my parents adulation cooking, so instead of authoritative me a abstracted meal they affectionate of assigned me with that task.” As a apprentice belief blur at Columbia College, she started Pancakes at the Grotto, a LGBTQ-friendly breakfast series, out of her accommodation “in the purgatory” amid Logan Square and Avondale. “All of the parties sucked, and I capital to be able to accumulate with accompany and not accept to comedy beer pong,” she says.
Studnicka and Thomas met two years ago while alive at Katherine Anne Confections. Thomas had aloof abdicate her special-ed amusing assignment job, burnt out on benevolence fatigue. “I had no academic training but absolutely admired food,” she says. “I had a lot of ability and not a lot of absolute practice, but that’s aback I absitively I absolutely capital to accessible my own business.” As for Studnicka, Pancakes at the Grotto had acquired into an all-consuming affection project, sometimes hosting up to 45 bodies for the redubbed Banquet at the Grotto. She abstracts she’s served some 3,000 guests during her six-year run—last year they voted her best advancing chef in the Reader’s Best of Chicago poll. Banquet at the Grotto won best underground dining.
They both addled out on their own a year ago, Thomas activity abounding beef with Black Cat, and Studnicka addition Banquet at the Grotto by alive as Rafael Esparza’s chef de cuisine at Finom. But they collaborated, too, conspicuously on a Nordic-inspired banquet in the winter of 2019, and in January for a cannabis-infused banquet affair to bless the state’s new recreational marijuana law.
The brace had abstruse they had a lot of opposing but adulatory comestible traits. “Being about a lot
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